A practical guide to countryside holidays: rural houses, getting around without city transport, hill walks and evenings in the square.
A countryside holiday is shaped by the house more than the itinerary. Choose the place for how you want the days to feel.
Rural buses exist, but they run for residents, not visitors. Plan transport before you choose the house, not after.
Hill walking near a rural base is one of the best parts of a country holiday. It asks for a little planning and a lot of respect for the land.
Rural food is seasonal, simple and often the best of the trip, provided you learn when the village eats and where it shops.
Cities have made cards feel universal. In villages you will still meet cash-only bars, an ATM that runs dry on market day and hosts who prefer a bank transfer.
Country evenings are slow. There is the fiesta in the square, a card game in the bar and, at many local festivals, a raffle. Enjoy them with your limits set in advance.